In Death there is Life at Sillustani

Nearly 13,000 feet above sea level on the shores of Lake Umayo, lies the spectacular pre-Incan burial grounds of Sillustani.  The tombs, which are built above ground in tower-like structures are called Chullpas, pre-Columbian funeral towers built by the Aymara people who dominated the Titicaca region before the Incas came in the 15th century.


The engineering involved in the construction of the Chullpas has been said to be more complex than anything built by the Incas. Free from mortar each stone is cut precisely to fit with the next one, with a larger diameter at the top than the bottom.  This photograph is of the Lizard Chullpa, standing at 39 feet tall with a 16 foot diameter.  The other side shows the 5 foot thickness of the walls.


Ancestor worship was an integral part of the Aymara culture, and the cylindrical towers were built to provide a connection between life and death.  The lizard as an archetype represents life as they are able to grow new tails.  The doors on these graves are very small only 1-2 feet wide and generally face the east, to receive the light of the rising sun; rebirth.  Ancestors would be placed inside in the foetal position along with llama's and guinea pigs, clay pots and other treasures.  

Traditionally they were shaped like a womb on the inside representing re-birth in the afterlife.  Now of course there are no further treasures as they have since been looted years ago, but have even survived dynamite attempts!  

I have been to Sillustani a few times and depending on what state I have been in, I have felt very different emotions there.  It has evoked sadness in me and also extreme happiness!  Some of the chullpa's are constructed differently and do not have smooth outer stones.  Walking around the site stirs up different energies.  Lake Umayo is a stunning backdrop for this ancient resting place.  

For all the spirits who have laid to rest there, they must be living it up on the other side because there is an energy that is very much alive, inviting, mysterious and simply beautiful.